Navigating to a Brighter Future

Under the shade of a lanai, overlooking the water’s edge and open to the South Sea breezes, I settle in to write a few notes and watch the boats in the distance. The beautiful view inspired much reflection. Moorea, Society Islands. October 2016. Photo: F. Rehnborg
Under the shade of a lanai, overlooking the water’s edge and open to the South Sea breezes, I settle in to write a few notes and watch the boats in the distance. The beautiful view inspired much reflection. Moorea, Society Islands. October 2016. Photo: F. Rehnborg

Our visit to Huahine, Moorea and Tahiti was an emotional one for me. It not only marked the end of our Double X sailing journey, but also triggered a flood of memories of my earlier trips to the islands as well as my father’s deep love for the South Seas and his efforts to protect its beauty and majesty. In the midst of this reflection, I was also keenly aware that this would probably be the last time that I sail to these lovely islands that have captivated me for most of my life. Continue reading Navigating to a Brighter Future

Coral Reefs, Then & Now

A Firebird crew member holds a delicate coral inadvertently broken off by our anchor chain during our passage from Bali, Indonesia, to the Cocos [Keeling] Islands, January 1977. With today’s warmer, more acidic ocean waters in the South Seas, it’s been difficult to spot vibrant coral like this during the Double X journey.
A Firebird crew member holds a delicate coral inadvertently broken off by our anchor chain during our passage from Bali, Indonesia, to the Cocos [Keeling] Islands, January 1977. With today’s warmer, more acidic ocean waters in the South Seas, it’s been difficult to spot vibrant coral like this during the Double X journey.
We certainly had a grand time on Tahaa and Raiatea visiting with friends and touring the islands. Of course, I was also eager to learn as much as I could about the local impact of warmer and acidic water conditions. It didn’t take long to come face-to-face with one of the most significant challenges that the islands face today: dying coral reefs. Continue reading Coral Reefs, Then & Now

A Friendly Welcome on Raiatea

Francesca and other guests celebrate the birthday of our friend Frendoo (not featured). In the background, Double X crew member Paul happily shares a friendly “hang loose” sign. Raiatea, October 2016.
Francesca and other guests celebrate the birthday of our friend Frendoo (not featured). In the background, Double X crew member Paul happily shares a friendly “hang loose” sign. Raiatea, October 2016.

I wrote about the wonderful time Francesca and I had on Tahaa in my last post. Our next stop was Raiatea, a sister island to Tahaa. Both islands are enclosed by a single coral reef and, at one time, may have been one island. When we arrived, we were welcomed with open arms by Frendoo, the daughter of one my father’s friends, and her husband Roland. The last time I saw Frendoo she was 14 years old. On this visit, she was celebrating her 61st birthday, and Francesca and I were excited to be able to join in the celebration. Continue reading A Friendly Welcome on Raiatea

Bora Bora and Beyond

Two happy children of Tahiti. September 2016
Two happy children of Tahiti. September 2016

Our sailing itinerary has changed yet again thanks to weather that has gone from dicey to downright unsafe. We had to give up on venturing out to relatively uninhabited areas where I was looking forward to exploring the land and talking with the islanders about what was happening in their corner of the world. Weather conditions dictated that we stick to the beaten path, so we passed on visiting more isolated atolls in the Tuamotus and set a course for the Society Islands. Our first stop: Bora Bora. Continue reading Bora Bora and Beyond

Our Whirlwind Sail to Ahe and Back

John, Elise, Francesca and I pose for a photo while snorkeling in the lagoon on Rangiroa in the Tuamotos. The water was calm here, but during our sail from Rangiroa to Ahe, the conditions were so tough that no one on board was able to take any photos. September 2016. Photo: F. Rehnborg
John, Elise, Francesca and I pose for a photo while snorkeling in the lagoon on Rangiroa in the Tuamotos. The water was calm here, but during our sail from Rangiroa to Ahe, the conditions were so tough that no one on board was able to take any photos. September 2016.

You haven’t received much news from me, not because there isn’t anything happening, but because we’ve been through a weather washing machine for the last few weeks. It hasn’t been the idyllic sail through the South Seas that I had anticipated or remembered from years back. Continue reading Our Whirlwind Sail to Ahe and Back

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